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KompoZer information page, free download and review at Download32. KompoZer is a wysiwyg HTML editor (Nvu/Composer fork) aimed towards advanced users. KompoZer is often considered as an unofficial bug-fix release for Nvu. Contents • • • • • • • • • • • Release History [ ] The following list shows the main changes happened for each update release. For more detailed release notes visit. April 11, 2013: XE4.0 [ ] Initial release. $ adb reboot bootloader # enter fastboot mode, takes 10-15 seconds $ fastboot devices # verify device is in fastboot, should see its serial # $ fastboot oem unlock # unlocking erases all data, you are prompted to run this command twice to be sure $ fastboot flash boot boot.img # gain root shell access with the rooted bootloader $ fastboot reboot # reboot the device $ adb root # start adb as root $ adb shell # access the shell as root Flash Factory Image [ ] Extract the desired factory system image package To flash Glass back to factory specifications then run the following script. Boot and system images can be found on. $ adb reboot bootloader # enter fastboot mode $ fastboot devices # verify device is in fastboot, should see its serial no. $ fastboot flash boot boot.img # flash partitions with factory images $ fastboot flash system system.img $ fastboot flash recovery recovery.img $ fastboot erase cache # optional, erase the cache and userdata partitition $ fastboot erase userdata $ fastboot oem lock # optional, only if you want to re-lock the bootloader. Modify Kernel source code [ ] You can easily obtain the kernel source code from google repository by using the following script. You can find all of the releases by following this. Retrieved June 6, 2012. Android Open Source Project. Archived from on 2014-10-17. Retrieved 2014-12-19. Retrieved 2014-03-20. Android Open Source Project. Open Handset Alliance. Retrieved 2012-09-09. The preferred license for the Android Open Source Project is the Apache Software License, 2.0.. Why Apache Software License?. For userspace (that is, non-kernel) software, we do in fact prefer ASL2.0 (and similar licenses like BSD, MIT, etc.) over other licenses such as LGPL. Android is about freedom and choice. The purpose of Android is promote openness in the mobile world, but we don't believe it's possible to predict or dictate all the uses to which people will want to put our software. So, while we encourage everyone to make devices that are open and modifiable, we don't believe it is our place to force them to do so. ![]() Using LGPL libraries would often force them to do so. Retrieved 2017-03-15. Retrieved 2017-03-15. Retrieved 2017-03-15. Android Police. Retrieved 2017-03-15. Retrieved 2017-03-15. Google Developers. Retrieved 2017-03-15. Share this story • • • Chrome 73 is going to, with an alternative color scheme for its user interface that cuts the brightness. It's now clear that a Windows version of the same is in development, though it seems it will trail the macOS version. A was spotted, and has been started to bring Windows its dark mode. Unlike its macOS counterpart, which should track the operating-system mode, the Windows dark mode currently has to be forcibly turned on with a command-line switch. Adding '--force-dark-mode' to the command line of current builds of Chrome 73 makes everything dark. Therefore, you can try to upgrade Chrome browser to the latest version with the right edition in your Windows Creator PC to quickly fix Chrome not working issue right now. 3 Solutions to Chrome Won't Open/Not working in Windows 10 Creator. If the above quick fix doesn't work and you still cannot use Chrome on your PC, don't worry. Uninstalling and reinstalling Chrome can fix problems with your search engine, Flash, pop-ups, updates, or other problems that might have prevented Chrome from opening. Still not working? Turn on crash reports to provide more information. ![]() The dark theme is still unfinished, hence this menu with almost illegible black text on a dark grey background. The macOS work has top priority (P1). The Windows work is only P2 (originally P3), surprisingly suggesting that it's less important, even though Chrome has far more Windows 10 users than it does macOS users. Development of the Windows theme was at least, for a time, hindered by one of the developers not. Chrome already has a dark-ish theme for incognito windows; these set the tabs, address bar, and related areas to be dark gray so that they're immediately distinguishable from regular, non-incognito windows. However, incognito only changes the main window chrome. Other parts of the interface, such as menus, are left in their usual light colors. Dark mode builds on the incognito theme to change menus and other parts of the interface dark, too. If you click a button or link and nothing happens, that normally means that pop-up windows are being blocked. To troubleshoot this issue, please select the appropriate browser below, and follow the steps. Internet Explorer: How to check for pop-up blockers • Click on the Tools icon in the upper right corner of the browser (looks like a gear). • You will see a drop-down menu appear. Go to the Internet Options. ![]() • Next you will see tabs at the top of the menu box. Select the Privacy tab. • Go to the Pop-up Blocker area. Either uncheck the box, or select Settings and add qbo.intuit.com as an exception. • Select Apply. • Log out, close Internet Explorer, reopen it, and log back in. • Try the activity you were blocked from before. Things to consider: • There are also various toolbars that have their own pop-up blockers. The menu option or icons for the pop-up blocker will vary between different toolbars. • Try hovering your mouse pointer over each icon; text should appear describing what the icon does. Normally, when you're hovering over the pop-up blocker icon, it will list # of pop-ups blocked or current on/off status. • If your QuickBooks Online pop-ups are still blocked, you can use the Windows hotkey by holding down the CTRL key before clicking the button or link that brings up the pop-up window. Firefox (Windows or Mac): Check for pop-up blockers • Select the Menu, and select Options. • The Options window will appear; select the Content tab. • Go to the Pop-Ups section and uncheck the box or select the Exceptions button and add qbo.intuit.com as an exception. • Select Save Changes. My mothers iMac (model A1173) recently took a power hit and died (black screen, power button is nonfunctional.dead). She had docs etc. On it that she would prefer not to lose, and I'm sure that the hard drive is still completely operational. She has decided (due to limited $$) not to risk the price of the power supply and so is buying a replacement, either PC (again $$) or a refurbished Mac. Either way I would like to pull her old hard drive and recover the data. Is it possible to hook the drive to my PC and read it? I know Macs have different formatting, but are there programs that would allow this? I think recovery facilities are expensive, so we would greatly appreciate any suggestions for how I can retrieve her data. And it usually is after a case like this, it is fairly straight forward to remove the HD and connect it to another computer. Depending on the model of iMac, it sounds as though you have an iMac G5 there, it is very easy to remove the drive, only takes three screws to remove the back cover, and then recover the drive. Jun 14, 2018 - If you want to format USB drive for Mac and PC on Windows, you can refer to this article and it will introduce you two ways to format the USB. ![]() (while you have the back off, and just out of curiosity, check the capacitors for bulges and leaks. This model was notorious for that and may well have been the cause of the problem). Hi, I know the thread is old, but this just happened to me and I'm traveling abroad so I was completely distraught to not know if my hard drive was fubar'ed with all my pics and such when the motherboard on my macbookpro went pop. Bought tiny Acer netbook and was able to download the HSFExplorer software. The Java stuff was a PITA to download and get right for some reason, but not being completely savvy with peecees likely caused some of that frustration. I field stripped the macbookpro, slapped the drive in a spare enclosure and did a little good juju dance before plugging it in. ![]() It worked and the data survived! The drive does not automatically pop up in the program's window: you have to tell the program to 'load from device' under the 'file' pulldown. The other software that worked for me was TransMac ( It's not free by any means at $48 USD, but it's interface is more friendly and intuitive (thought dated looking, but when you are distraught about your data the working/intuitive gui is by far more important than the shiny baubles of the gui) and that might be worth alot to some. I also tried MacDrive ( but it would not run on my netbook for some reason or another and since it costs a tiny bit more than TransMac I didn't bother pursuing the 'why' of it. Cheers and good luck out there! I had my mac HD 10.4.11 removed after clicking started, but the pros couldn't retrieve data. I couldn't backup before that because the OS/formatting was different and the data would not load to my backup device. I've frozen the old external HD in the fridge and the clicking does stop. Until it thaws. I've read that in the frozen state, people can copy some data. Without the clicking sound, the message I get is: 'The disk you inserted is not readable by this computer: (initialize.) (ignore) (eject)'. How can I retrieve my data? I know it's a last ditch effort. But with the Classic Menu for Excel 2007/2010/2013/2016/2019 installed, you can Click the Menus tab to experience the classic style interface and find the Tools menu easily. Click the arrow next to the Tools to access the familiar functions from the dropdown menu. The menu option I think you are looking for to check file references is not accessed directly from Excel, but is inside the VBA interface. Go to the Developer Tab and then to 'Visual Basic'. In the menu options there, you will find a Tools menu with a References otion which lets you add and remove file references. That’s exactly what I felt like in this situation. I was working in Excel 2010 on a workbook with multiple sheets when I suddenly couldn’t interact with the Insert or Data menus (they were entirely greyed out), I also couldn’t interact with my PivotCharts at all. ![]() I spent half an hour scouring the Internet and reading that it may be to do with my Sharing or Protected Workbook options, but my workbook was neither shared nor protected. The Solution I had inadvertently selected multiple worksheets, *clicking* on a single worksheet doesn’t deselect the multiple worksheet selection – here’s where the bad design causes confusion. You need to shift-click on a single worksheet to deselect the others, and resolve the problem. Update 1 (07/04/13): I’ve had a lot of people commenting thanking for the above – you’re welcome! Some people have found that this hasn’t worked for them, thanks to commentor “Laci” who has posted another solution which seems to cause the same behavior: Solution B: “Excel Options” “Advanced” “Display options for this workbook” “For objects, show”. “All” Update 2 (08/04/13): If neither of the two solutions above work for you, commenter “maurita” has another solution if you’ve found your data options are unavailable in Excel Solution C: You may have enabled “Track Changes”, to undo this go to the “Review” tab and click on the Track Changes option and deactivate it/accept the changes. My favourite comment so far has to be: 17 – Margaret (September 28th, 2012): “I found this just moments before committing Seppekku Thank God.” Keep the comments coming people, especially if none of the above work and you find an alternative solution. Update 2 (12/01/16): Yes, these solutions are still going strong! I still receive lots of comments from you guys saying that one of the solutions either from here or in the comments fix your issues with Excel 2010, 2013, 2016, Solution D added: Solution D: It might be a shared Workbook, so you’ll need to disable sharing. Click on the “Review” tab, then “Share Workbook”, then, under Editing uncheck “Allow changes by ”. Adobe Will No Longer Sell Software On The Mac: You’ll Have To Rent Photoshop Instead. Attention, Internet Explorer User Announcement: Jive has discontinued support for Internet Explorer 7 and below. In order to provide the best platform for continued innovation, Jive no longer supports Internet Explorer 7. Jive will not function with this version of Internet Explorer. Please consider upgrading to a more recent version of Internet Explorer, or trying another browser such as Firefox, Safari, or Google Chrome. (Please remember to honor your company's IT policies before installing new software!) • • • •. I recently wrote an In this follow-up, we’ll take a look at how to open images in Camera Raw using the Camera Raw plug-in. We can work with Raw, JPEG and TIFF files. You can open a raw file in Photoshop, in much the same way as you would open any other type of image file. The difference is, the raw file opens in the Camera Raw window instead of the main Photoshop workspace. Open Raw Files From The File Browser To open a raw file from your Windows File Explorer, or Mac Finder, you can: • Double-click the file’s icon. If Photoshop isn’t already running, your computer will launch it and then open the Camera Raw window. Or • Ctrl + Click (Mac) or Right-Click (Windows) on the file and then choose Open With > Adobe Photoshop CC. This will open Photoshop if it’s not already open and then open the Camera Raw window. As Camera Raw was originally made to process photos taken in raw format, if you double-click on a raw image on your computer it SHOULD automatically launch Photoshop and open the image within Camera Raw. If the raw file doesn’t open, check that you have the latest version of Camera Raw from Adobe’s Creative Cloud if you’re using Photoshop CC. Or check the Adobe website for updates if you’re using an older version of Photoshop. Open Images in Camera Raw From Bridge It’s simple to open Raw, JPEG and TIFF files from Adobe Bridge. Here are three different ways to get your photo from Bridge to Camera Raw: • Double-click a raw file in the Content panel. The image opens in Camera Raw. Or • Click once on any image – Raw, JPEG or TIFF, then press Ctrl + R (Windows) or Cmd + R (Mac). Or • Activate an image in the Content panel and then choose File > “Open in Camera Raw.” Open JPEG or TIFF images in Camera Raw You can open JPEG or TIFF files from Bridge (as mentioned above). You can also open a JPEG or TIFF from Photoshop, directly into Camera Raw, by doing the following: • In Windows: From Photoshop’s File menu, choose Open As. Browse through your folders to find the JPEG or TIFF image you want. Click on the file you’re interested in, then change the pop-up menu at the bottom right to Camera Raw, then click Open. • On a Mac: From Photoshop’s File menu, choose Open. The Open dialog appears. Browse through your folders to find the JPEG or TIFF image you want. Click on the file you want. ![]() In the Format pop-up menu at the bottom it will say JPEG (or TIFF if you chose a TIFF file), now click on that menu, then choose Camera Raw. Then click the Open button and your image will open in Camera Raw. How to Make JPEGs and TIFFs Always Open In Camera Raw If you’d like to set up so that every time you open a JPEG or TIFF, it opens directly in Camera Raw, you can do that in the Camera Raw preferences. I would recommend this for photographers, but I don’t recommend it for designers. Go to Photoshop > Preferences > Camera Raw (Mac) or Edit > Preferences > Camera Raw (Windows) 2. At the bottom of the Camera Raw Preferences dialog, under JPEG and TIFF Handling, set both JPEG and TIFF to Automatically Open All Supported JPEGs and Automatically Open all Supported TIFFs, respectively. Note that this change won’t kick in until the next time you start Photoshop. Opening more than one file at a time in Camera Raw You can open multiple files in Camera Raw from either Bridge or Photoshop, and you can apply the same edits to multiple files simultaneously. This can be really handy if you have a pile of images that were all taken in the same environment and require the same sort of adjustments, such as creating more contrast or removing colour casts. To open multiple files from Bridge, into Camera Raw, do the following: 1. In Bridge, open the folder holding your photos. Shift + Click all of the images you want. Choose File > Open In Camera Raw. Your images open in Camera Raw. Notice the film strip along the left side. Choose any photo to edit by simply clicking on the thumbnail. And that’s how you can open images in Camera Raw in Photoshop. Now you can start to have fun editing your Raw, JPEG and TIFF files. I hope you found this post helpful. Please share it. Quicken Usage Is Declining Searches for the term “quicken” have steady decreased over time (courtesy of Google Trends) Investor Junkie’s visitor traffic is a good indicator of the personal finance software space. First, set up Quicken Mobile Sync in Quicken Desktop: Open Quicken and go to the Mobile & Alerts tab. Depending on the sizing of the Quicken window, the Mobile & Alerts tab may be located in the More tab. Click Get Started to select the accounts you want to sync to your mobile device. Place a check next to each account you want to sync to mobile. Converting Quicken for Windows files Overview The following components of your Quicken for Windows data file can be converted to QIF: – Account types that exist in both Quicken for Windows and Quicken for Mac. – Banking transactions. – Most investment transactions. – Categories, classes, and securities contained within the exported transactions. The following components of your Quicken for Windows data file that cannot be converted to QIF: – Employee Stock Purchase Plan (ESPP) transactions – Employee Stock Option Plan (ESOP) transactions – Quicken for Windows business accounts: Invoices Business bills – Loan amortization schedules – Online banking information such as account setup information, Online Payees, and online payment instructions – Scheduled Transactions – QuickFill (memorized) Transactions – Saved or memorized reports – Security price history – Tax status of Investment accounts – Certain types of investment transactions. Converting your file is a 3-part process. First you must prepare the Quicken for Windows files, then create QIF (Quicken Interchange Format) files, and finally create a new file on the Mac and import the QIF files. Prepare the Quicken for Windows files Account names and category names can be no more than 15 characters long. ![]() To shorten longer names: – Select the Tools menu and select Account List. – Click the Options button and select View hidden accounts. – Click the Manage Accounts tab and clear all Hide in Quicken checkboxes. – For each account whose name has more than 15 characters: Right-click the account and select Edit. Enter a name no more than 15 characters long, and then click OK. – Select the Tools menu and select Category List. – For each account whose name has more than 15 characters: Select the category name and select Edit. Enter a name no more than 15 characters long, and then click OK. – Names of securities cannot contain special characters and ticker symbols must be all uppercase letters: Select the Investing menu and select Security List. For each security name that contains a character such as!, @, #, $,%, ^, &, or *: Right-click the security name and select Edit. Change the name so it does not contain those characters. For each ticker symbol that is not all uppercase: Right click the ticker symbol and select Edit. Change the symbol to all uppercase letters, such as AAPL, and then click OK. – Accept all downloaded transactions to the account register or list. A red flag next to the name of an account indicates the account has a pending action, such as a downloaded transaction to be accepted. You'll need to delete the large email or move it to local pst-file to resolve this issue. If you cannot find the message, you can follow the steps below to find it: 1. In Outlook, press Ctrl+Shift+F to open the Advanced Find dialog. In Advanced Find dialog, click Browse, and check all the folders (and subfolders) in the email account. I am also receiving this message: [ALERT] Message too large. I'm getting hundreds of these a day. I believe they stem from sending some picts of my son's football team. I'd just ignore the continued clogging up of my error log except the continued error spam from google's server is actually slowing my computer down. Gmail NEEDS to get on the ball and get a REAL solution. Like, oh I don't know, STOP SENDING THE MESSAGE AFTER IT'S BEEN SENT 3 TIMES or something like that. ![]() I'm not willing to remove or redefine my account. If it comes to that, I'll probably just abandon gmail for one of the newer email solutions. Try my luck there. Bkennelly, 12:43 น. Actually I was responding to and talking about an earlier suggestion that says 'I had the same problem using outlook 2013. Try going into your control panel, click microsoft office, click change and then repair. It worked for me. ![]() I see that where my question shows in the conversation, it reads as if I was talking about the large email and attachment in the draft folder. I don't have anything in the draft folder or a large email anywhere. Outlook started sending this message on my Gmail account every couple of minutes after I installed the 3/12/13 Office for Mac 2011 update. This is on my Macbook Air with OS X 10.8.3. My iMac is now asking me to update, but I don't want to do it until this issue is fixed on my Air. (I'm not getting the message on my iMac.) paul olin 4/4/2013, 17:55 น. This did the trick. The mysterious 'too large' file was in my 'Deleted Items' folder, that was trying to sync. From messages below, same thing can happen in 'Drafts'. Thanks for the great tip! On Tuesday, January 22, 2013 5:08:22 PM UTC-8, Devan Suber wrote: > I had this issue too, but then when i opened progress it told me that it was uploading changes to deleted items, which returned the error. When i checked deleted items, i found a video slideshow that i decided i didn't want to send someone that was attached to the message. Deleting it fixed the error. I would open up progress, see what it's trying to change, then deleting that item. Roger Wilkinson 15/8/2013, 1:53 น. Microsoft Outlook limits the size of attachments to 20mb (20480kb), this isn’t an issue if you’re sending a document or a picture, but if you’re sending a set of large high-res pictures, larger files, or even videos, this can become a major hindrance. This applies to one large file or several smaller files that combined exceed the size limit. If you attempt to send a file that exceeds the size limit, you will receive this error message: “The attachment size exceeds the allowable limit”. This error message wasn’t added until Outlook 2010. If you have an earlier version of Outlook you may receive a different error message from the mail server. There are several methods that can be used to work around this problem. The easiest fix is to resize the attachment or compress the file. Multiple files can be compressed into a zip file to reduce the overall file size. This, however, doesn’t work for everyone’s situation. It may be necessary to increase the limit allowed by Outlook as well. Depending on the limit set by your email provider you may be able to increase the Outlook limit to match. This involves going into your computer registry to alter the limit set by Outlook. The following directions will walk you through changing the registry to increase the limit size in Outlook. How to Increase the Attachment Size Limit in Outlook: • Click the Start Menu and type “ regedit” into the search bar. Need more tools for your multimedia projects? Check out Movavi Video Editor Plus for Mac! Features and built-in content Video Editor 15 for Mac Video Editor 15 Plus for Mac Essential video editing Filters, transitions, titles, effects Montage Wizard Maximum number of tracks on the Timeline 6 99 Keyframe animation of titles, overlay video, etc. Nov 9, 2017 - Mac loyalists never miss a chance to proclaim their devotion to Apple, so it. (mostly in content production, performance, media and motivational speaking). Liked that they didn't need to manage additional antivirus software. Highlight & Conceal tool Ready-to-use intros and outros 5 16 Sample Video Clips 10 20 Built-in music 27 39 Stickers 10 86 Faster processing of large HD videos Faster processing of Full HD and 4K videos. Is it time to sell or give away your old Mac? Or do you just want a fresh start to clean up your machine? Here’s how to securely delete all of your files, then install a fresh version of macOS. If you’re selling or giving away your computer, this is the only way to make sure whoever ends up with your Mac can’t access to your files, and won’t have to deal with any modifications you’ve made to macOS over the years. Don’t just delete your user profile and call it a day—you’ll want to completely wipe it. Before you start, make sure you transfer any files you want to keep to a new computer or external drive. Even if you don’t intend on wiping your drive, it’s a good idea to back up before re-installing your operating system. Step One: Boot From Recovery Mode, or an Installer RELATED: is a treasure trove of useful tools, and it’s the easiest way to wipe your computer and start from scratch. ![]() Shut down your Mac, turn it on while holding down Command+R. Your Mac will boot into the recovery partition. If you’re using an older Mac (from 2010 or earlier), there’s a chance that you can’t use Recovery Mode. On those devices, hold “Option” while turning your computer on, then select the recovery partition instead. If neither of these options work, don’t panic! You’ve got a couple of options yet. You can: hold Command+Shift+R while turning on your Mac and it will download the Recovery features for you. Failing that, you can, and boot from that by holding “Option” while turning on your Mac. Once you’ve managed to open up the Recovery Mode in some fashion, we can move on to wiping your drive securely. Step Two: Securely Wipe Your Hard Drive (Optional) If you want to re-install your operating system, but leave your files in place, you can skip this step. Your user accounts and files will stay exactly where they are—only your operating system will be overwritten. We recommend backing up files before you do this, just in case, but otherwise you’re ready for step three. If you want a truly clean installation, however, you need to first wipe your hard drive. We’ve shown you, and doing so in Recovery Mode isn’t really different from doing so within macOS. To get started, click the Disk Utility option. Depending on how you started Recovery Mode, you may be presented with the option to start Disk Utility right away, as seen above. If not you can find Disk Utility in the menu bar: click Utilities then Disk Utility. You’ll now see your list of hard drives. Click your primary drive, then click “Erase” If you’re wiping a mechanical drive, click “Security Options” in the window that pops up. (If your Mac has a solid state drive, you can skip this part:. You still need to wipe the drive, however, or your files will remain in place, so skip to the end of this step to do so.) Now move the dial up, to randomly write data over your entire drive., but if you’re paranoid you can also wipe it three or five times. RELATED: Click “OK” once you’ve decided, but remember: if your Mac has a solid state drive, you do not need to use these options. Just give your drive a name (I recommend “Macintosh HD”, just for consistency’s sake), then click “Erase” to start the overwriting process. If you opted to wipe your drive securely, this might take a while—30 minutes to an hour is not unreasonable for one pass. If you choose three or five passes, you might want to leave this running overnight. Step Three: Reinstall macOS With your information wipe complete, you are now ready to reinstall macOS. If you booted from a functioning recovery partition, click the “Reinstall macOS” button. The installation process will begin. How to Format a Drive on a Mac. If you want to use a different file system on your USB drive, you’ll need to “format” it. Again, formatting a drive will erase it completely, so make sure you have everything backed up that you want to keep. To format a drive on a Mac, you’ll need the built-in Disk Utility application. Looking for a way to install and run OS X on an external hard drive? This can be useful for a couple of different reasons. Firstly, it allows you to run another copy of OS X without needing any additional Mac computer. Also, since you can run a full copy of OS X on the external drive, it can be used for troubleshooting purposes on other Macs or it can be as a kind of virtual OS X. I’ve already written about how you can, but that takes up space on your Mac. Using an external drive, you can save space on your Mac, though it might be a bit slower if you are using USB 2.0. In this article, I’ll walk you through the requirements and steps to install OS X onto an external hard drive. Format External Hard Disk The first thing you’re going to need to do is format the external hard drive properly. The file format has to be Mac OS X Journaled and you have to use the GUID partition map. To do this, open Disk Utility and connect the drive to your Mac. Under External in the left hand menu, click on your external hard drive and then click on the Erase button. Make sure you backup any data before you erase the drive. When you click Erase, a dialog will pop up where you can configure some options. Give your drive a name, choose OS X Extended (Journaled) for Format and GUID Partition Map for Scheme. It should only take a minute or two for the drive to be erased and reformatted. Now your drive is ready for OS X. Install OS X There are two ways you can install OS X on to your external hard disk: by reinstalling OS X from the OS X Utilities repair screen or by downloading OS X from the App Store and running the installer. I’ll show you both methods in case one isn’t working for you. The easiest way is to download OS X from the App Store. Once you open the App Store, you’ll see a link on the right for the latest version of OS X (El Capitan as of this writing). Go ahead and click the Download button to start downloading the installer. Note that if you already have that version of OS X installed, you’ll see a popup message appear asking if you still want to continue or not. Just click Continue. Once it has been downloaded, just double-click the installer, which will be located in the Applications folder. Keep clicking past the license agreement, etc., until you get to the screen that asks you which disk to install OS X on. ![]() By default, it is set to MacBook. Click on the Show All Disks button and you’ll see an icon for the different disks and partitions on the Mac. I named my external hard drive OS X and that shows up in the middle. You can also tell it’s an external hard disk because it uses the icon with the orange hard drive. Click Continue and then follow the instructions to complete the installation. Note that your computer may restart during the install and you don’t have to do anything. OS X will automatically continue installing onto the external hard drive rather than booting up to your internal version of OS X. ![]() At the end of this article, I’ll show you how to boot up to the external hard drive, so skip down if you ended up using the App Store method. Note that by default, the Mac will start booting up directly to the external hard drive until you change it. The second method to install OS X is to restart the Mac and press and hold the COMMAND + R keys. This will load up OS X Recovery. The OS X Utilities screen will appear and here you want to click on Reinstall OS X. Again, you’ll go through some basic screens, but when you get to the hard disk screen, click on Show All Disks again. Using this method, you’ll have to login using your Apple ID and password so that the entire OS X installer can be downloaded off of Apple’s servers. |
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